Passionate about Pembrokeshire

 Pembrokeshire is full of special places. The lie of the land, the western peninsula pushing into the Irish sea, the Cleddau waterway, and the Preseli hills offer many vistas that draw artists, writers and common folk more generally. But some places are very special. One is at Haroldston Chins above the high 300ft cliffs between Broadhaven and Druidston, near the centre of St Brides Bay. Here there is a long flat cliff walk with exceptional views of the ocean. To the north is St David’s Head and Ramsey Island. To the south is Skomer Island, though it looks to be an extension of the land.

 

'Where the sea touches the sky in a limitless horizon...'

Walking the coast path at this point feels like being on the deck of a liner with a limitless horizon, and where the sea touches the sky in a seamless continuity. Invariably, out in the Bay are oil tankers parked in line. Normally there are three or four, but I’ve counted as many as a dozen, waiting their turn for a berth in Milford Haven.

It is one of those places that, whatever the weather, feels intensely spiritual. And, in fact, it has taken on the character of a modern, secular 18^th or 19^th Century churchyard. It is full of benches bearing plaques commemorating the lives of people who frequented this place. One is in memory of Paul Blick who helped establish the Pembrokeshre coast path in the 1960s and who was appointed its first warden. The inscription is taken from Shakespeare’s sonnet, ‘Shall I compare three to a summer’s day’: So long as men can breathe or eyes can see, / So long lives this, and this gives life to thee.

A stretch of the cliff path has been tarmacked to provide wheelchair access. At intervals are square benches hewn from tree trunks, all bearing plaques. One is for Sheila Ann Mathias 30-9-42 to 12-6-02: “In loving memory of a devoted wife, mother and granny who liked to walk this path. Hope you enjoy the view as much as she did.” Another is for Edward Hier 1913-2007 and Margaret Hier 1921-2012, both of whom were “Passionate about Pembrokeshire”.

A little further on towards Broadhaven is a standing stone with a plaque declaring: ‘In memory of Glyn Charles Olympic Yachtsman. Lost at sea 4.9.1965 – 27.12.1998. He loved Pembrokeshire.’ Charles was drowned, aged 33, after being swept overboard from the yacht The Sword of Orion he was crewing during the 630 mile Sydney to Hobart Race, one of yachting’s most challenging contests. Ironically Glyn didn’t like ocean racing because the open sea made him seasick. Instead he was ranked fourth in the world for sailing the Star Class, a 22.5ft, two-man keelboat.

Most of these commemorations are for people who lived for a reasonable time. They had a good innings, you might say. But there is one for a young man who did not reach twenty, Roger Dyer 3 June 1981 – 27 February 2000. The inscription bears a quotation from Nelson Mandela: “It is not a calamity to die with dreams unfulfilled, but it is a calamity not to dream.”

Though we live in a largely secular age, we still need our own versions of spiritual commemoration.